Sewing Question?

Azeeza

New member
When sewing with two way stretch fabric, does one have to cut on the bias for yolk collar :confused: ?

Thanks,

Azeeza
 

Maya Raschad

New member
No, but try this:-make a narrow casing at the neck edge,stitch with a narrow zig zag, then thread some narrow elastic through it, don't pull it tight, just enough so it lies flat. This makes it fit very well.
 

Azeeza

New member
Thank you both for your advice.

I'm a little confused with the bias cut. I thought it was mostly for fabrics without stretch and it was used on curved areas to "fit" better. Or is there something more magical about the bias cut besides the stretch/fit issue?

Azeeza
 

Shanazel

Moderator
The magic of bias cut is the way it drapes on the body. Vionnet (I probably spelled that wrong; she was a French dressmaker in the thirties) was the absolute master of the bias cut. If you can find some pictures of her clothes, you will understand immediately the glory of bias cut. Compare a dancing skirt cut on the straight grain with one cut on the bias, as most circle skirts are cut. The bias skirts spin out beautifully, they curve gracefully over the hips, and are elegant to wear. Bias tends to stretch, of course, so you have to let a bias skirt hang for awhile before hemming it, but it is worth the delay.
 

Azeeza

New member
Hey, thanks Shanazel:

What about collars? I wouldn't think it would matter except for the stretch factor.

Azeeza
 

Shanazel

Moderator
You mean collars like you find on men's shirts? I think I'd cut those on grain. Collars like the draped necklines of an evening gown? I'd cut bias. Bias cut uses up more fabric, and is therefore more expensive, so unless there was a good reason that draping is needed in a garment, I'd cut on grain.
 

Azeeza

New member
Ladies Neckline Dress

You mean collars like you find on men's shirts? I think I'd cut those on grain. Collars like the draped necklines of an evening gown? I'd cut bias. Bias cut uses up more fabric, and is therefore more expensive, so unless there was a good reason that draping is needed in a garment, I'd cut on grain.

Boy, you are a wealth of info! Thank you!!

I have stretch material that I am making a dress from. I wondered if the stretch in the material was enough to make a scoop neckline in a dress? I always thought that cutting fabric for a similar neckline should be on the bias for the straight look on a curved neckline. If the fabric is already stretchy, wouldn't that be fine? I could save a lot of fabric by cutting on the stretchy side rather than on the bias.

This is new to me and I don't have a pattern, so I'm inquiring from the sewing experts.

Any ideas? I'm totally clueless, although I could try it and see what happens, but I'd rather not do that.

Azeeza

PS Sorry to go on and on about this. :eek:
 

Mariesaffron

New member
Now that you have offer more info, I can understand what you are trying to say, I would go fo bias, in cases like yours the only efect of a stretchy fabric is not enough. Marie
 

Azeeza

New member
Hi Everyone:

Thanks for all the advice.

I've done some thinking and some sewing last night and I tend to agree with Mariesaffron with cutting on the bias for a ladies scoop design neckline.

Trying to fit a straight piece of fabric on a curve, no matter how stretchy the material is, is just not going to work. I think the piece would end up being floppy or it wouldn't stretch enough. The bias cut would give the area a little more "bounce back" and stretch and fitting that is needed in a curved and straight area.

Again, thank you all for your help and support. I really appreciate it and if I drove anyone mad with my incessant questions, I apologize. I HAVE learned a lot!

Azeeza
 

Azeeza

New member
Disaster, Disaster, Disaster!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

HARK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Don't use the bias cut on the stretchy scoop neckline!!!! I've been taking the seams out of this several times :eek: !

The first was a bias cut, it turned out warpy. So, I tried connecting the back with a pie shape, still didn't work. Ended up ripping out the collar :mad: .

The next time, I cut a circular shape, it was too large on the inside. I tried the pie cut in the center back. Still didn't work. Ripped the collar out :mad: .

Then, I cut a piece of fabric, with the stretch, and attached it and it looks OK. Not what I wanted, but I'm not redoing it. It's good enough for the Government, which is good enough for me:rolleyes: .

Just an FYI,

Azeeza
 
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Shanazel

Moderator
Oh, dear, I'm sorry, I went home before I read your post about cutting a scoop neck on bias. Well, live and learn, right? Bias stretches very much, and does not necessarily pop back into shape. A bias cut for a scoop neck on non-stretch fabric is much easier to deal with than on stretch fabric. Try it sometime and see. I have an a-line dress pattern with a scopp neck that is cut on bias and it hangs beautifully. Personally, I hate dealing with stretch fabric and necklines of any kind- I almost always manage to stretch them out of shape at least slightly no matter how careful I am.
 
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