"The Veiled Male"
My teacher/troupe leader put a crazy idea into my head: Make a mermaid skirt. Any good online tutorials? This sounds like it would take a LOT more precision than my usual projects...
How long are the back panels? I'd be afraid of stepping on the hem if it had much of a train, but I guess it depends on how much stepping backward a dancer does. Those big backward-traveling undulations were a thing for a while, but they don't seem to be as common as they once were.At the back, the two mid panels are slightly longer and give the feeling of a train.
It sounds lovely, but I wouldn't be brave enough to start with that fabric and work out the details of a new pattern at the same time. (I've always found stretch velour more challenging than velvet or regular knits.) Would it be worth doing a test run with some junky knit to get the pattern sorted first?I have some stretchy fuchsia velour I'm eyeballing.
What if you cut the top a little looser and fluffed the bottom out with horsehair braid? I don't know how that would work with velour, but it should give you more of a fishtail with other fabrics.I think I better put a slit in it to at least above the knee - otherwise its gonna be almost a hobble skirt.
Not very much longer, just a few cm. I've never tripped in my mermaid skirts.How long are the back panels? I'd be afraid of stepping on the hem if it had much of a train, but I guess it depends on how much stepping backward a dancer does. Those big backward-traveling undulations were a thing for a while, but they don't seem to be as common as they once were.
Seconding Tourbeau's recommendation: I used this tutorial recently to make a 3-panel version, which somehow worked better than 5 panels for the amount of fabric I had. I'm fairly new to sewing, especially bottoms, but I had the panels cut and baste stitched together in about 3 hours. I still have to finish it... welp.I haven't personally tried it, but Mao has a tutorial at https://www.sparklybelly.com/how-to-make-a-mermaid-skirt-1-pattern-making/ .
For the benefit of the less experienced costumers out there, best sewing practices say to keep the grain consistent for every piece of the garment. In other words, the center line from top to bottom of each pattern piece goes the same direction as you cut out the fabric. This is especially important for fabrics with a sheen like satin, a nap like velvet, or a print with obvious direction (you don't want half of your birds flying upside down or sideways or whatever). This method takes up A LOT of fabric. The godets get balanced on a perpendicular tangent so they run point-top-to-pie-crust-bottom the same top-to-bottom direction as the rectangles, which leaves tons of odd scraps, although those pieces can be used for small accessories (gauntlets, anklets, headband, choker) or joined together to cover a bra or belt base if you're making a whole costume. (Hint: Mark the grain direction on the back of your scraps with tailor's chalk if you plan to repurpose them later.)I try to get two triangles out of the width (one triangle facing each direction to maximize fabric use. [...] Side note- putting godets in opposing directions to cut means there's going to be a shade variant on opposing godets. If this is going to bother you, cut all triangles in the same direction.)