Fabric, notions, and sewing tips

Shanazel

Moderator
Spinoff from the Egyptian Costumes are Lacking thread. Share your comments on fabric and notion quality: what is worth having and what to avoid.


You usually get what you pay for. The stuff that WalMart and other discount stores carry is usually cheap on price and cheap in quality. Manufacturers add sizing and othe things to the cloth to make it look good in the store. A washing or some regular use deteriorates the fabric quickly and you're left with a rag much sooner than if you'd gone to a better store.


Fabric stores like Joanne's and Hancock are medium range though if you are careful you can find some great buys on the flat fold tables. This is where I've bought most of my fabric over the years; I haunt the flat fold tables.

High end fabric stores keep high end quality, but even then you have to be careful about what you are buying. I bought some beautiful green raw silk that I've never been able to use because the dye is not stable and rubs off on everything. I was furious later on when one of the clerks told me they knew about the problem with the silk. By that time it was too late because the owner had retired. That was the only trouble I had with their fabric, though. I bought a TON when they went out of business and the stuff has over all been excellent.


I love going to Elfrieda's Fine Fabric in Boulder just to watch Elfrieda cut fabric. She never measures, just unfurls the fabric on the table and whacks off the amount you ask for. I bought half a dozen quarter yards of silk dupioni for a project; when she was done cutting there wasn't a quarter inch difference in the widths. A friend told me that Elfrieda buys her silk from Thai Silk so I buy from Thai when I need to- cheaper than a trip to Boulder and Elfrieda's markup, I've had great luck with Thai. They sent the wrong silk once and when I called to tell them about it, they had the right stuff on my doorstep within 48 hours.


Fabric mills actually turn out differnt qualities for different markets. The chiffon at Hancoks doesn't compare with what I got at the high end store. It is particularly noticeable in things like quilting fabric. I can't believe people make quilts from discount house fabric- that cotton is sized within an inch of its life. Off grain, third run dye process on the prints... bite the bullet and buy good stuff if you want your quilts to last under use.
 

PracticalDancer

New member
I am not sure if there is a "good store" near me. I have had to learn french seam techniques and bind, bind, bind, to get the H and J fabrics to hold up. :(
 

Shanazel

Moderator
The closest good fabric store is a good four and a half hours away, but I've got a big enough stockpile that I have no business ever setting foot in a fabric store again. I won't mention that I was in Hancock's an hour ago to buy a pattern and three reels of ribbon.

Fray Check has been my good friend for many years and I am very fond of the iron on narrow bias tape one can get in the quilting department. I bought a bunch of it on sale years ago and it is fine for making narrow seams and hems on bias cut skirts. I'd never trust it without sewing it, but it stablizes delicate fabric edges until I can get the seams sewn. It comes in colors and metallics; I iron a strip on the wring side of a bias hem, then turn it up on the right side of the skirt and stitch it into place- clean finished edge and narrow decorative trim in two easy steps.

Silk organdy is another life saver and I've not regretted the extra money silk costs over the cotton or (horrors!) polyester organdy. I have a couple of pieces I use for press cloths and one of these days I'm going to buy a yard and turn it all into bias strips for finishing raw edges and stabilizing shoulder seams and necklines. Such luxury to have yards of pre-cut and folded silk bias tape.

PS I just changed the title of this thread to broaden it. Leap right in, ladies and gentlemen; share your best tips and your worse sewing nightmares here.
 
Last edited:

Zorba

"The Veiled Male"
Every Belly Dancer I know goes to "Fabrics R Us" in San Jose, Ca. They have stuff no-one else does - and it seems to be good quality to my uneducated eye. No-one that I've heard has complained about their quality, and we ALL go there.

Horror stories? Bad and/or old thread is the stuff of nightmares.
 

teela

New member
If I want silk, I buy it down at EM-Be's in the garment district in Los Angeles. He always has such nice silk and if he says its silk, you know it is silk. His prices for silk are quite good. I have also gotten some handkerchief linen from him that was phenominal. Otherwise, I try to order from on-line as the only fabric they sell in my town is cotton's for dresses.
 

Shanazel

Moderator
Does Em-be sell online, Teela?


But I get a 10% employee discount at Wal-Mart. :(

Put that 10% into perspective. Let's say you want to buy five yards of fabric at WalMart at $3 a yard- that's fifteen dollars, minus 10% (calculate, calculate...) what did you save? A whole dollar fifty on your purchase. And this is the stuff that is getting runs in it before it is even sewn. How many wearings are you going to get for your $13.50?

Now, you head off to Hancocks, which is higher quality than WalMart, but not as good as Elfrieda. That fabric (same type, better grade) normally costs $6 a yard, but lo and behold, it goes on sale 30% off, bringing the price down to (hold it, gotta write this one out- nah, change the sale to 33% off). It is now $4 a yard so you spend twenty dollars for fabric that lasts twenty wearings. That's dollar per wearing compared to $13.50 for a WalMart item already damaged before the sewing is done.

It isn't always that dramatic, but see what I mean?

I never buy fabric full price. I've been watching a couple of pieces of gold and silver brocade for a couple of months now. Mark down is currently 50% but each month it goes down another 10%. There's a lot of each fabric so I'll chance waiting on it. If it is still there the end of October I'll be able to get it for 70% off, end of November, 80% off. My best buy at Hancocks was probably a length of $16 a yard patterned silk for $3 a yard. I think it was accidentally marked and put on the flat fold tables because it was back on the silk shelf next time I was in the store. I could've bought the same stuff from Thai/Exotic (same business, one retail, one wholesale) for about $8 a yard.

How's that for too much information? :lol:

Another thing I do is buy good sewing thread (NOT Coats and Clark) when it is on sale for 50% off. I keep a whole range of grays at hand and match thread and fabric values instead of matching fabric and thread color unless I am top stitching.

I used to like to have cotton fabric on hand that was the color of my torso. I used it for waistbands on my skirts and harem pants so if the waistband peeked above my belt it wasn't so noticeable.

C'mon, Anala, leap in here. I know you've got more sewing tips than I do. :D
 
Last edited:

Daimona

Moderator
I miss the good, old personalized fabric stores with excellent service my town had until a couple of years ago when a large foreign fabric store brand branched out to my hometown and literally killing the last of the small fabric stores.

I've never been happy with the new store and mostly go there to buy the basics such as sewing machine needles when needed and only rarely buy small amounts fabrics from them. I prefer to work with pure wool, pure linen or pure silk, but their main fabrics are printed cottons, polyester and mixed fabrics. I'd actually rather use the coarse linen from IKEA than the mixed linen fabrics they've got at the new store. I've also tried their spandex once, and it simply sucks, being of very low quality. Ordering things that aren't in their shelves seems to be impossible. The workers, young students for the most, whose job is mainly measuring and cutting, don't know much about fabrics and sewing compared to the previous shops we had and they simply don't try to sell other things in the store. No need to say I rarely buy more than I came for anymore. The last time I went there I actually wished to have the possibility to cut the fabrics myself to save time and avoid interacting more than necessary.

Anyone knows of good online fabric suppliers?
Apart from relying on the heaps of fabric I bought at the final sales at the good old stores (ahem, probably enough to keep me busy for the next decade) I've found myself new suppliers for wool (partly online) and linen (through acquaintances), but I still need new suppliers of silk and spandex. I've been surfing at spandexhouse.com, but never bought anything from them yet.
 

Sophia Maria

New member
Fabric stores like Joanne's and Hancock are medium range though if you are careful you can find some great buys on the flat fold tables. This is where I've bought most of my fabric over the years; I haunt the flat fold tables.

Honestly, I'm a complete sewing novice, so I haven't really checked out all the possibilities for sewing supplies yet. Also, I'm back and forth between school and home during the year, which means I'll have to find some stores in both places. But Joanne's has been good to me so far--I bought fabric there for a circle skirt this summer, and my mother helped me put it all together. I can't remember for the life of me what the fabric was, only that it was some sort of poly-blend, moved nicely, and had a good sheen to it. I need to start taking a leaf out of your book, though, and haunt the sales--I've bought some fabric from Joanne's that seemed oddly overpriced.

Does anyone have links to good online stores? I've never bought online before.
 

Ariadne

Well-known member
But I get a 10% employee discount at Wal-Mart. :(

You can actually get some great deals at Wal-mart on their sale rack but you have to know your fabric. Their sale rack is basically whatever fabrics other store couldn't sell that they've put on unlabeled bolts. They have a lot of crap but if you know your fabric you can occasionally find a gem. My M-I-L works there and she has come home with some beautiful linens and cottons that are identical with what she would have gotten at a major store at a fraction of the price.
 

M'Lady Caija

New member
I bought some beautiful green raw silk that I've never been able to use because the dye is not stable and rubs off on everything. I was furious later on when one of the clerks told me they knew about the problem with the silk.

If the silk is dyed with indigo it will rub off. And also it can be so easy that when they dyed the silk they had to much pigment in the bath, or to much synthethic pigment etc depending on the technique.

If you still have the fabric, cut off a 3"x3" and wash it a couple of times and see if the fabric changes in appearance, if it stops rubbing off or what's going on with it.

I made a pair of wrist-warmers in an technique predating crocheting and knitting with a woolen yarn dyed with indigo and I was BLUE after handling the yarn even for a few minutes. If you rubed the yarn on a white paper it rubbed of lots of blue.



Sorry for the big pic, haven't managed to be friend with all the settings yet ;)/edit: I managed to fix it! :D

Anyone knows of good online fabric suppliers?
Apart from relying on the heaps of fabric I bought at the final sales at the good old stores (ahem, probably enough to keep me busy for the next decade) I've found myself new suppliers for wool (partly online) and linen (through acquaintances), but I still need new suppliers of silk and spandex. I've been surfing at spandexhouse.com, but never bought anything from them yet.

Have you tried http://medeltidsmode.se ? It's not far from norway and I know she ships within europe as well. And she has a lot of wool, linen of different types (sometimes extremely thin and soft linen but also the classical samir-linen that is rather coarse) some really nice linen/hemp or hemp/yak-wool, and some other very nice fabrics for the historical reenactor. ;)
 
Last edited:

Darshiva

Moderator
Indigo dyes can be fixed with a hot salt wash. 1 cup of salt per machine-load of fabric, two to three more rinses and the fabric will stop rubbing dye off. whoever dyed the fabric should be shot for not finishing the job properly!

Follow shira's trick of cutting off a strip of fabric, but this time put it in a tub of hot water (5 litre) with 2 tbsp salt & agitate vigourously with a stirer (use a wooden stick or rod, DON'T use anything you want to use for another purpose) for 5 minutes. Let it sit for 10-15, then agitate again. Rinse thoroughly in warm water, then one final rinse in cold water. If it's an indigo dye, once the fabric is dry it will have set. If not, try again with a different strip with a commmercial dye setting agent (dylon has them). Modern dyes may not take as well to setting agents.

Also, ask Alosha for advice if mine doesn't work. She has a deft hand with dyes and far more recent experience with them than I do. I had to stop working with dyes 5 years ago due to allergies, which is a pity because I was a budding textile artist, specialising in dye-marking, until then. ;)
 

Shanazel

Moderator
I made a pair of wrist-warmers in an technique predating crocheting and knitting with a woolen yarn dyed with indigo and I was BLUE after handling the yarn even for a few minutes. If you rubed the yarn on a white paper it rubbed of lots of blue.

Oh ho, looked like a Pict instead of a Viking, did you?

My silk is green, but I'll try the salt bath anyway. Nothing to lose since I can't use the silk in its present condition. I did wash some one time and the hand and appearance change, but I rather like the change.

I haven't heard from Alosha in so long though I watch her on Facebook. I miss her here on the forum. She made beautiful veils. She sent me one as a gift one time and I treasure it.
 

PracticalDancer

New member
Another thing I do is buy good sewing thread (NOT Coats and Clark) when it is on sale for 50% off. . . .
C'mon, Anala, leap in here. I know you've got more sewing tips than I do. :D

(hangs head) I think I am about to be DQ'd from commenting with any advice -- I am making a street skirt (non dance, for regular wear) using C&C thread with a label that must indicate it dates to the 80's. But, I did an extensive "tug test" on it and it seems to be working fine . . .
 

Ariadne

Well-known member
I haven't heard from Alosha in so long though I watch her on Facebook. I miss her here on the forum. She made beautiful veils. She sent me one as a gift one time and I treasure it.

Do you think it would be ok put up a link to her FB page? I've been worried about her lately since it's been so long since we've seen her.
 

Shanazel

Moderator
(hangs head) I think I am about to be DQ'd from commenting with any advice -- I am making a street skirt (non dance, for regular wear) using C&C thread with a label that must indicate it dates to the 80's. But, I did an extensive "tug test" on it and it seems to be working fine . . .

Hallelujah, sister! I be preaching the good news about good thread! You have confessed your sin; all is forgiven. Speak ye your piece.

Okay, I'll confess, too. This week I finally weeded out the wooden spools of thread I inherted from my mother and grandmother. Some of them are older than I am and cost 5 cents a spool. I decided to use them to make a mobile for my sewing room. I also own myriads of C&C but I use it solely for handsewing now. Once I saw what a mess it makes of my machine innards when compared to the good stuff I never put a spool of it on my machine spindle again.

Do you think it would be ok put up a link to her FB page? I've been worried about her lately since it's been so long since we've seen her.

I don't know why not; Facebook is not exactly private. I think having her third baby and only two hands considerably increased her daily activities, but she seems to be fine. I was so sorry when she left us.
 
Last edited:

Farasha Hanem

New member
I'm not much of a sewer (seamstress? sewer? oO; ), and am only beginning to get an idea of what good quality fabric is. I still have to say the $1.50 table is still my favorite. :cool:
 

Daimona

Moderator
spelling

I made a pair of wrist-warmers in an technique predating crocheting and knitting with a woolen yarn dyed with indigo and I was BLUE after handling the yarn even for a few minutes.

You were doing nålbinding, weren't you? ;)
I had the same problem when I handled some thin yarn dyed with vaid.
When I bought some plant dyed silk yarn at a market earlier this summer, the seller also recommended me to wash some of them (particularly the greens and blues) thoroughly before using them.

Have you tried Medeltidsmode ? It's not far from norway and I know she ships within europe as well. And she has a lot of wool, linen of different types (sometimes extremely thin and soft linen but also the classical samir-linen that is rather coarse) some really nice linen/hemp or hemp/yak-wool, and some other very nice fabrics for the historical reenactor. ;)

Yes, thank you, M'Lady Caija! Some friends of mine have also ordered from Kerstin previously and I'm regularly drooling over the keyboard because of the nice fabrics to get some ideas for new projects. :)
 
Last edited:

M'Lady Caija

New member
Oh ho, looked like a Pict instead of a Viking, did you?

Yup, and that wasn't the plan ;)


You were doing nålbinding, weren't you?
I had the same problem when I handled some thin yarn dyed with vaid.

Guilty as charged, Nålbinding it was ^^ I lined them with white fur afterwards.

Another tip Daimona is that you e-mail Kerstin and order some fabric-samples then you can se them IRL, tuoch them and drool ^^ And you could also go to the markets she visits in norway a couple of times every year and pat the fabrics and drool a LOT, i usually bring my own bib so I wont ruin the fabrics :rolleyes:
 

Daimona

Moderator
Another tip Daimona is that you e-mail Kerstin and order some fabric-samples then you can se them IRL, tuoch them and drool ^^ And you could also go to the markets she visits in norway a couple of times every year and pat the fabrics and drool a LOT, i usually bring my own bib so I wont ruin the fabrics :rolleyes:

:lol: I've already laid my dirty paws on her fabric IRL.

But ordering fabric samples are a good idea in general.

I did that from a Norwegian wool provider a year ago while ordering some fabrics for a cape and a coat from them (still haven't got around to make those garments yet, though.. :rolleyes:).
 
Top