Costume evolution

Kharmine · 06-15-2009, 03:38 PM

I've been thinking it would be fun to see how various components of the belly dance stage costume evolved.

Breaking it down:

1) Bedlah -- when did we first see the use of the famous two-piece, midriff-revealing outfit?

2) Veil(s) -- Was Samia Gamel the first or just one of 'em?

3) Belly button concealment -- there was a time when it seemed every possible way to hide 'em was used. I am especially fond of the "hood ornament" look 'cause it was so silly.

4) Belly button highlight -- Then came the emphasis on making the naval stand out with gems, flowers, etc.

Any more costume parts to suggest? The earliest example of the use you know of?

maria_harlequin · 06-15-2009, 04:34 PM

The mermaid skirt!! I've really seen a switch from big flowy circle skirts to mermaid skirts. All of my costumes have big circle skirts though but I might try a mermaid skirt in the future.

shiradotnet · 06-15-2009, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kharmine

1) Bedlah -- when did we first see the use of the famous two-piece, midriff-revealing outfit?

In belly dance? Or in modern dance? You'll see this look in the portrayals of Salome in the early 20th century - Maud Allen with her modern dance "Visions of Salome" tour, various people in their portrayal of Salome in Richard Strauss' opera titled Salome, etc. It entered the belly dance scene later, probably because Europeans who were familiar with the Salomania liked all the skin it bared and wanted/expected to see it on dancers in the nightclubs of Cairo.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kharmine

2) Veil(s) -- Was Samia Gamel the first or just one of 'em?

See The Veil and Oriental Dance

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kharmine

3) Belly button concealment -- there was a time when it seemed every possible way to hide 'em was used. I am especially fond of the "hood ornament" look 'cause it was so silly.

Read about the Hayes code in movie history

feedyoureye · 06-15-2009, 06:27 PM

1914

I love seeing the older dance costumes.... myth or not.....

Kharmine · 06-15-2009, 07:31 PM

Good stuff, all!

Maria H., can you recall when and where you first saw the fishtail skirt worn by a belly dancer?

Shira, you're right, belly dance costume is definitely an outgrowth of the Salome craze. Feedyoureye, thanks for providing a good example.

And before that, do we owe this look to the Orientalist painters? Or some art that showed up even earlier? Maybe from a description in a book?

About that "hood ornament" thing -- I've seen a late-1930s-early 1940s clip of Bebe Ezzedin (the woman who bought out Badia Masabni) wearing one of those things in one of "The Great Unknown" videos of the "Stars of Egypt" series.

Before that, I had only seen it worn in a 1953 Hollywood movie musical called "Desert Song." Since then, I've since seen the hood ornament once or twice in 1940s Egyptian movies so it's hard to tell when it and where it originated. Anyone?

feedyoureye · 06-15-2009, 09:37 PM

1875

feedyoureye · 06-15-2009, 09:41 PM

around the same time- 19th Century European Art

google Fabio Fabbi, he painted mostly all dancing girls.

Mosaic · 06-15-2009, 09:45 PM

Hood ornament ... that I have never seen, that is quite new to me, any pics or links on that one? Sounds truly odd

~Mosaic

feedyoureye · 06-15-2009, 10:10 PM

Find some good info here:
Myths

1903 movie, "The Vision Of Salome" with Maud Allen wearing belly cover jewelry.

THanks to Raqs Al Almeh - Academy Of Middle Eastern Dance for this quote
"The practice of wearing a jewel in the navel was invented by Hollywood, under a censorship guideline known as the Hayes Code. The code was devised during the backlash of the "Fatty Arbuckle" scandal. It was a long list of rules and guidelines for the assurance of morality in the movies. As well, censors were on hand during all movie shoots to assure that these guidelines were being met. Costuming guidelines for women became quite strict during the onslaught of popular B grade "Sheik and Harem" movies. Actresses were not allowed to show their navel, or wear two piece costumes. During the filming of the 1903 movie, "The Vision Of Salome" a censor stopped filming until the costume the actress Maud Allen was wearing was altered. Maud was sent to the prop master who quickly and mischievously fixed the problem. He ripped apart a very elaborate Victorian costume necklace and added a length of the jewelry chain from the center section of the top of the costume to center of the bottom part. That got them around the one piece rule, but there was also the problem of the exposed navel. This was fixed when the prop master ripped a fake jewel out and glued it into the navel of the actress. To finish the effect, he took the remaining section of the demolished necklace and draped it over the upper abdomen. "

Mosaic · 06-15-2009, 10:33 PM

That Maud Allen costume looks great actually

I bet sarah Skinner could turn that costume into something quite gorgeous with her skill as a costume creator.
~Mosaic

06-15-2009, 03:38 PM	#1
Kharmine V.I.P. Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Foot of the Rocky Mountains Posts: 1,968	Costume evolution I've been thinking it would be fun to see how various components of the belly dance stage costume evolved. Breaking it down: 1) Bedlah -- when did we first see the use of the famous two-piece, midriff-revealing outfit? 2) Veil(s) -- Was Samia Gamel the first or just one of 'em? 3) Belly button concealment -- there was a time when it seemed every possible way to hide 'em was used. I am especially fond of the "hood ornament" look 'cause it was so silly. 4) Belly button highlight -- Then came the emphasis on making the naval stand out with gems, flowers, etc. Any more costume parts to suggest? The earliest example of the use you know of? __________________ What if the hokey pokey is really what it's all about?

06-15-2009, 07:31 PM	#5
Kharmine V.I.P. Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Foot of the Rocky Mountains Posts: 1,968	Good stuff, all! Maria H., can you recall when and where you first saw the fishtail skirt worn by a belly dancer? Shira, you're right, belly dance costume is definitely an outgrowth of the Salome craze. Feedyoureye, thanks for providing a good example. And before that, do we owe this look to the Orientalist painters? Or some art that showed up even earlier? Maybe from a description in a book? About that "hood ornament" thing -- I've seen a late-1930s-early 1940s clip of Bebe Ezzedin (the woman who bought out Badia Masabni) wearing one of those things in one of "The Great Unknown" videos of the "Stars of Egypt" series. Before that, I had only seen it worn in a 1953 Hollywood movie musical called "Desert Song." Since then, I've since seen the hood ornament once or twice in 1940s Egyptian movies so it's hard to tell when it and where it originated. Anyone? __________________ What if the hokey pokey is really what it's all about? Last edited by Kharmine; 06-15-2009 at 07:46 PM.

06-15-2009, 09:45 PM	#8
Mosaic Super Moderator Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Melbourne Australia, but a Kiwi Posts: 6,597	Hood ornament ... that I have never seen, that is quite new to me, any pics or links on that one? Sounds truly odd ~Mosaic __________________ *Stifling an urge to dance is bad for your health - it rusts your spirit and your hips. ~Adabella Radici*

06-15-2009, 10:33 PM	#10
Mosaic Super Moderator Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Melbourne Australia, but a Kiwi Posts: 6,597	That Maud Allen costume looks great actually I bet sarah Skinner could turn that costume into something quite gorgeous with her skill as a costume creator. ~Mosaic __________________ *Stifling an urge to dance is bad for your health - it rusts your spirit and your hips. ~Adabella Radici*

06-15-2009, 04:34 PM	#2
maria_harlequin V.I.P. Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Somewhere! Posts: 968	The mermaid skirt!! I've really seen a switch from big flowy circle skirts to mermaid skirts. All of my costumes have big circle skirts though but I might try a mermaid skirt in the future.

06-15-2009, 06:27 PM	#4
feedyoureye Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Sacramento, CA Posts: 273	1914 I love seeing the older dance costumes.... myth or not.....

06-15-2009, 09:37 PM	#6
feedyoureye Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Sacramento, CA Posts: 273	1875

06-15-2009, 09:41 PM	#7
feedyoureye Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Sacramento, CA Posts: 273	around the same time- 19th Century European Art google Fabio Fabbi, he painted mostly all dancing girls.

06-15-2009, 10:10 PM	#9
feedyoureye Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Sacramento, CA Posts: 273	Find some good info here: Myths 1903 movie, "The Vision Of Salome" with Maud Allen wearing belly cover jewelry. THanks to Raqs Al Almeh - Academy Of Middle Eastern Dance for this quote "The practice of wearing a jewel in the navel was invented by Hollywood, under a censorship guideline known as the Hayes Code. The code was devised during the backlash of the "Fatty Arbuckle" scandal. It was a long list of rules and guidelines for the assurance of morality in the movies. As well, censors were on hand during all movie shoots to assure that these guidelines were being met. Costuming guidelines for women became quite strict during the onslaught of popular B grade "Sheik and Harem" movies. Actresses were not allowed to show their navel, or wear two piece costumes. During the filming of the 1903 movie, "The Vision Of Salome" a censor stopped filming until the costume the actress Maud Allen was wearing was altered. Maud was sent to the prop master who quickly and mischievously fixed the problem. He ripped apart a very elaborate Victorian costume necklace and added a length of the jewelry chain from the center section of the top of the costume to center of the bottom part. That got them around the one piece rule, but there was also the problem of the exposed navel. This was fixed when the prop master ripped a fake jewel out and glued it into the navel of the actress. To finish the effect, he took the remaining section of the demolished necklace and draped it over the upper abdomen. "