Sewing Question?

Azeeza · 09-13-2006, 09:26 PM

When sewing with two way stretch fabric, does one have to cut on the bias for yolk collar ?

Thanks,

Azeeza

Mariesaffron · 09-14-2006, 01:01 AM

No, just interface to avoid the streching efect.

Maya Raschad · 09-14-2006, 07:29 AM

No, but try this:-make a narrow casing at the neck edge,stitch with a narrow zig zag, then thread some narrow elastic through it, don't pull it tight, just enough so it lies flat. This makes it fit very well.

Azeeza · 09-14-2006, 01:53 PM

Thank you both for your advice.

I'm a little confused with the bias cut. I thought it was mostly for fabrics without stretch and it was used on curved areas to "fit" better. Or is there something more magical about the bias cut besides the stretch/fit issue?

Azeeza

Shanazel · 09-14-2006, 02:36 PM

The magic of bias cut is the way it drapes on the body. Vionnet (I probably spelled that wrong; she was a French dressmaker in the thirties) was the absolute master of the bias cut. If you can find some pictures of her clothes, you will understand immediately the glory of bias cut. Compare a dancing skirt cut on the straight grain with one cut on the bias, as most circle skirts are cut. The bias skirts spin out beautifully, they curve gracefully over the hips, and are elegant to wear. Bias tends to stretch, of course, so you have to let a bias skirt hang for awhile before hemming it, but it is worth the delay.

Azeeza · 09-14-2006, 03:31 PM

Hey, thanks Shanazel:

What about collars? I wouldn't think it would matter except for the stretch factor.

Azeeza

Shanazel · 09-14-2006, 06:45 PM

You mean collars like you find on men's shirts? I think I'd cut those on grain. Collars like the draped necklines of an evening gown? I'd cut bias. Bias cut uses up more fabric, and is therefore more expensive, so unless there was a good reason that draping is needed in a garment, I'd cut on grain.

Azeeza · 09-14-2006, 10:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shanazel

You mean collars like you find on men's shirts? I think I'd cut those on grain. Collars like the draped necklines of an evening gown? I'd cut bias. Bias cut uses up more fabric, and is therefore more expensive, so unless there was a good reason that draping is needed in a garment, I'd cut on grain.

Boy, you are a wealth of info! Thank you!!

I have stretch material that I am making a dress from. I wondered if the stretch in the material was enough to make a scoop neckline in a dress? I always thought that cutting fabric for a similar neckline should be on the bias for the straight look on a curved neckline. If the fabric is already stretchy, wouldn't that be fine? I could save a lot of fabric by cutting on the stretchy side rather than on the bias.

This is new to me and I don't have a pattern, so I'm inquiring from the sewing experts.

Any ideas? I'm totally clueless, although I could try it and see what happens, but I'd rather not do that.

Azeeza

PS Sorry to go on and on about this. :o

Mariesaffron · 09-15-2006, 02:43 AM

Now that you have offer more info, I can understand what you are trying to say, I would go fo bias, in cases like yours the only efect of a stretchy fabric is not enough. Marie

Azeeza · 09-15-2006, 02:27 PM

Hi Everyone:

Thanks for all the advice.

I've done some thinking and some sewing last night and I tend to agree with Mariesaffron with cutting on the bias for a ladies scoop design neckline.

Trying to fit a straight piece of fabric on a curve, no matter how stretchy the material is, is just not going to work. I think the piece would end up being floppy or it wouldn't stretch enough. The bias cut would give the area a little more "bounce back" and stretch and fitting that is needed in a curved and straight area.

Again, thank you all for your help and support. I really appreciate it and if I drove anyone mad with my incessant questions, I apologize. I HAVE learned a lot!

Azeeza

09-13-2006, 09:26 PM	#1 (permalink)
Azeeza Moderator Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 829	Sewing Question? When sewing with two way stretch fabric, does one have to cut on the bias for yolk collar ? Thanks, Azeeza

09-14-2006, 01:01 AM	#2 (permalink)
Mariesaffron Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: I live in Morgan City Posts: 155	No, just interface to avoid the streching efect.

09-14-2006, 07:29 AM	#3 (permalink)
Maya Raschad Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Vancouver Island-Canada Posts: 46	No, but try this:-make a narrow casing at the neck edge,stitch with a narrow zig zag, then thread some narrow elastic through it, don't pull it tight, just enough so it lies flat. This makes it fit very well.

09-14-2006, 01:53 PM	#4 (permalink)
Azeeza Moderator Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 829	Thank you both for your advice. I'm a little confused with the bias cut. I thought it was mostly for fabrics without stretch and it was used on curved areas to "fit" better. Or is there something more magical about the bias cut besides the stretch/fit issue? Azeeza

09-14-2006, 02:36 PM	#5 (permalink)
Shanazel Moderator Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Rocky Mountains USA Posts: 4,578	The magic of bias cut is the way it drapes on the body. Vionnet (I probably spelled that wrong; she was a French dressmaker in the thirties) was the absolute master of the bias cut. If you can find some pictures of her clothes, you will understand immediately the glory of bias cut. Compare a dancing skirt cut on the straight grain with one cut on the bias, as most circle skirts are cut. The bias skirts spin out beautifully, they curve gracefully over the hips, and are elegant to wear. Bias tends to stretch, of course, so you have to let a bias skirt hang for awhile before hemming it, but it is worth the delay.

09-14-2006, 03:31 PM	#6 (permalink)
Azeeza Moderator Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 829	Hey, thanks Shanazel: What about collars? I wouldn't think it would matter except for the stretch factor. Azeeza

09-14-2006, 06:45 PM	#7 (permalink)
Shanazel Moderator Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Rocky Mountains USA Posts: 4,578	You mean collars like you find on men's shirts? I think I'd cut those on grain. Collars like the draped necklines of an evening gown? I'd cut bias. Bias cut uses up more fabric, and is therefore more expensive, so unless there was a good reason that draping is needed in a garment, I'd cut on grain.

09-15-2006, 02:43 AM	#9 (permalink)
Mariesaffron Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: I live in Morgan City Posts: 155	Now that you have offer more info, I can understand what you are trying to say, I would go fo bias, in cases like yours the only efect of a stretchy fabric is not enough. Marie

09-15-2006, 02:27 PM	#10 (permalink)
Azeeza Moderator Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 829	Hi Everyone: Thanks for all the advice. I've done some thinking and some sewing last night and I tend to agree with Mariesaffron with cutting on the bias for a ladies scoop design neckline. Trying to fit a straight piece of fabric on a curve, no matter how stretchy the material is, is just not going to work. I think the piece would end up being floppy or it wouldn't stretch enough. The bias cut would give the area a little more "bounce back" and stretch and fitting that is needed in a curved and straight area. Again, thank you all for your help and support. I really appreciate it and if I drove anyone mad with my incessant questions, I apologize. I HAVE learned a lot! Azeeza