Gores! Gores is the word I was looking for. Gores are wedged shape pattern pieces that are sewn together into a skirt that is narrower at the top than at the hem so there isn't so much fabric up top to gather. Godets are inserts that you cn put into a gored skirt if you like.
Ta-dah! The knowledge is still in my brain- it's just the retrieval system that is antiquated.
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